A storm ahead
It was on a stormy spring March day in 1810 that I began my journey through North Baluchistan riding upon a camel. Glancing past the few rain-dropped date palms I was able to realize the pure adrenaline that the adventures I was about to embark on would bring upon me. I was enthralled. Charles Christie and I were about to become subsequent players in the great game, and more than ever, I was feverish to let the games begin
It had taken Christie and I a duration of two months before we reached the remote and desolate village called Nushki. It was here where we separated and while Christie journeyed further westwards towards Southern Persia, I remained in the village until my caravan was sufficiently prepared. Only minutes after our arrival the rain began to pour. Bursts of lightning jolted through the barren skies and water poured so vigorously that it looked as if the soil would dispatch. Although I had never before been affrighted by a storm of such, my wet turban was not the only thing that left me shivering. The remainder of the last night that Christie and I were together, we discussed our plans and agreed a rendezvous where we would meet after our voyages through Baluchistan
I woke the following day as the first rays of sunlight escaped through the wooly clouds. Since our native house lacked the supply of food I took a short walk to the nearest market where a filling meal awaited me. Cooked in a mud oven was a warm loaf of flatbread, which I spread with a generous layer of creamy fresh cheese. The taste was slightly crumbly, similar to a soft Parmesan but also had the angelic creaminess of a young gouda cheese. Drizzled with an earthy honey, my meal seemed almost complete until I received a glass of buttermilk, which nicely complimented the meal, leaving an after taste that still lingers in my mind.
After leaving the market I stumbled across a young dark-haired boy selling freshly picked dates. An assortment of wild fruits and berries appeared when he opened the small casket, which he had hung from his neck. Almonds, pecans and walnuts were also pilled in the wooden container.
“Laktva!“ he exclaimed.
I assumed that this was a word they used to describe the fruit. Just looking at the rainbow colors filling that casket I was amazed at how great the Baluchi diet really was. In the end, I bought a handful of nuts and dates, and made my way back to the house.
Parting from Christie was most certainly not an easy task since we had been traveling with each other for quite some time. I waved goodbye uncomfortably as his cloak disappeared in the distance. After all, the next few days held much more anxiety for me than I was aware of.
Farewell, great dunes of Helmund
Luckily it did not take long before the small caravan was ready and I, along with the company of five others, set off on the road towards the Helmund desert. Starring out towards the lifeless dunes reminded me of a never-ending ocean rippling with every movement. The heat escaped the surface of sand through waves of vehemence and sights and sounds were so blurred by the immense sun that I suddenly felt quite lightheaded. A long nap was what I needed in many such occasions. But although the headache had vanished when I woke, the reoccurring scenery remained the same.
As I recollect, the Helmund seemed as if it had been a faultlessly placed gift of Mother Nature, dropped in the center of southeast Baluchistan. This was for the reason that it would have been advantageous as a defense mechanism to attacking enemies. My four companions and I soon found why after a few miles when the dunes began to exponentially increase in size, some of which nearly up to twenty feet. Fine, red sand twinkled as we passed, leaving a crimson glow that gradually blended into the bright blue skies. It was surely a moment not to forget, for we had difficulty getting the camels to climb over these dunes with ease. Particles of sand flew up with the wind and nibbled at the camel’s hooves. They did not seem pleased. Adding to this discomfort the following say was the blazing sun and even sharper wind. It forced the sand specks and splinters to reach even our mouths and noses.
Our thirst stopped us from persisting any further. We had reached a dry bed of a river situated beside an abandoned village, where our lack of water supplies was soon to be recuperated. Subsequent to digging several holes, we managed to obtain two skins of water, which we finished on all men and camels, thinking that we would not need reserve to enable us to reach the next village. I was thankful that our throats were no longer parched in agony.
Riding the camel a further distance through the red dunes was an agonizing pursuit. The heat gyrated to a forming storm up ahead. I was secretly fearful of a replication of the storm I had experienced before, however, I was determined to keep traveling and minimize the breaks to ensure a correct keeping in schedule. This time, the rain drops were thicker, like the consistency of a grape compared to a freshly picked New Delhi mango. They fell concomitantly, accompanied by whirlwinds and forceful gusts of the stormy breeze. To us it seemed such a contrast to the necessitation of water which we had desired earlier today. As one of our men said “the deserts are unpredictable like the actions of an untamed Kathiawar horse”. The inky atmosphere clouding the path ahead seemed more than a good enough signal for us to postpone our travels.
Architecture of the Gods
Reaching the city of Kullugan was both compulsive and alleviating. One of our men, Andreev, turned out to be married to the daughter of the Sirdar of Makran, so an unplanned visit to him was bound to take place. However, I was advised to change my guise of a horse-trader into one of a religious hadji.
Upon entering the mud-built walls of the city, we were received by the Sirdar’s elders and himself, who brought us to a group of conjoined rooms about five minutes from the city entrance. Not having eaten anything for the past day and a half, we were eager to ingest possibly more than one meal. This proved to be a rather difficult task, however, due to the lack of food supplies caused by a recent drought. We managed to acquire a few handfuls of dates each and barley flour, which we used to create our very own flatbread. It was not a spectacular meal but proved to be good enough to fill all five of us.
The following night, the Sirdar came down to our rooms and began a conversation, which to my horror had incorporated a few aspects of religion. I was able to bluff my way through the hours, but was not able to escape the invitation of visiting the mosque before our departure the following day. To my surprise, this was not as big as a mistake as I thought it would be.
Although the religious aspect of the mosque was not enough to leave me impressed, the architectural side definitely did grasp me. Walking on the narrow concrete path leading up to it, I already began to take notice of the structural buildings put together. It gave off such a warm atmosphere, the swaying trees in the breeze along the path, like servants greeting a king to his castle.
I was also amazed at the beautiful forms and lines created by the smooth domes and towers. The colors were also very vibrant, a cool blue tone was used to color the entrance towers while white carved frieze patterns detailed the walls. Patterns I had never quite seen like this before, were dancing right before my eyes-flowers, ferns and star-like shapes as well. It was a truly artistic approach of decoration to a place where such a vast amount of people visited to honor their God. This was the best I had found in Kullugan.
Leaving somewhere enjoyable had become almost a custom now. What I most realized as we climbed on top of the camels again, though, were the lovely signs of summer. The storm seemed to be such a vast distance away, never to set foot near me until a years time.
The few trees that lived through the drought were beginning to grow leaves of the purest green. I was even able to notice the ephedra buds beginning to burst like ripened fruit, their cadmium colors sprouting through the crevices of patched grass. Riding away with my cloak floating in the wind, I noticed that my journeys up to now had eluded me from troubles and steered me in the direction of beauty. The Great Game to me so far, seemed indeed an easy game to play.